Playlist: Runways of New York Fashion Week




New York Fashion Week:  Bryant Park.  Large white tents.  Admission by invitation only.  Seas of well-clad, well-coifed, often statement-wearing attendees.  NYFW is a semiannual all-week event that is a pinnacle of the fashion industry.  An entire week in which fashion designers' collections are shown on the runways to respective buyers and the press; the week in which the next season's trends are determined (fashion is always taking place with the future in mind).

New York Fashion Week, originally named Press Week, began in 1943.  Its initial goal was to distract attention from French fashion during WWII.  Press Week was a success, bringing American designers into the limelight and effectively promoting them.

To date, there are over a hundred fashion weeks that take place globally - with the four major fashion capitols being New York, London, Milan, and Paris.

Runway shows aren't only about the clothes or who is sitting in the front row.  Presentation is everything in delivering the designer's collection, aesthetic, and philosophy.  Music selection can say a lot about how designers think about him or herself and the clothes they're putting out. The soundtracks used to accompany runway shows work in the same way that music functions in film.  "Music is used to invoke, inspire, and empower... [it] is as crucial as color and lighting schemes, and some consider catwalk music selection more important than visual effects," says a sound representative of WNY Sound.  Music sets the tone for the    show and engages the viewers.  In addition, the beat of the music is often used as a metronome to pace the models' walking.





The following playlist is a selection of music that was used on the runways for Fall/Winter 09/10:


1.  Artist:  Grace Jones 
     Song:  "Pull Up to the Bumper"
     Album:  Nightclubbing
     Year:  1981
     Label:  Island

Grace Jones was one of the members of New York City's Studio 54 scene during the late 70's and strongly influenced the cross-dressing movement of the 1980's.  Along with her strong visual presence, she adopted various personas and wore outlandish costumes for her performances and tours.  "Pull Up to the Bumper" raised controversy upon its release for its suggestive lyrics:  "Pull up to my bumper baby / In your long black limousine / Pull up to my bumper baby / Drive it in between."
Jones was the Most Played Artist of Fashion Week with 14 plays, and this song was the winner of Most Played Track - played 5 times.  The song has a catchy disco-beat and carries connotations to nightclub culture.

For the Zero + Maria Cornejo Fall 2009 show, "Pull Up to the Bumper" was used as the finale.  The designer, Maria Cornejo, said she designed this particular collection for a "strong but positive" woman, with "feel-good inspirations behind the collection."

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"Pull Up to the Bumper." Grace Jones, Nightclubbing. Island, 422-842368-2, 1981. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:g9ftxq95ldae (Apr 6, 2010).



2.  Artist:  Freeland [DJ Adam Freeland]
    Song:  Under Control
    Album:  Cope
    Year:  2009
    Label: Marine Parade

Prior to the release of Cope, Adam Freeland became an in-demand DJ around Britain and spread his name in underground circles.  His sound is best described as "electronica that falls somewhere between rock and dance" (allmusic.com).  "Under Control" is a high-energy song well-suited for the dance floor and party scenes.

San Francisco-based designer clothing brand, Nice Collective, launched its debut collection titled "Time Machine" at Fall 2009 NYFW.  The theme centered around a "distopic, but euphoric vision of blurred timelines and epochs" (nicecollective.com).  The looks were street chic with messy precision (or precise messiness?) and the layered aesthetic.  Freeland's "Under Control" provided just the right amount of energy and attitude to complement the clothing, suited for those with fast-paced lifestyles.

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"Under Control." Freeland, Cope. Marine Parade, 941235, Jun 9, 2009. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:wnfyxzr0ldae (Apr 6, 2010).

Image Sources:  http://thefashionisto.com/blog/2009/02/18/nice-collective-fall-2009/
http://www.nicecollective.com/magazine/culture/



3.  Artist:  Kings of Leon
     Song:  "Knocked Up"
     Album:  Because of the Times
     Year:  2007
     Label:  RCA

Kings of Leon, known for their Dixie-styled rock & roll influence, merged themselves into experimental rock in the 2000's.  Because of the Times has a darker sound, with more of a post-punk aesthetic than their earlier work.  The lyrics of "Knocked Up" narrate a couple who are going to have their baby, regardless of the "People [that] call us renegades / 'cause we like living crazy."  A common theme among Kings of Leon's songs is "girls who amused or wronged them, a train of femme fatales... pulling them off the straight and narrow" (pitchfork.com).  Words aside, this song has a relatively simple sound with brisk percussion.  

"Knocked Up" was the opening song for the Chloé Fall 2009 show.  This collection has stark neutral colors, wider and looser proportions, and clean lines that represent a masculine look.  However, there is an overall modest femininity to the clothes.  This can be seen with the ruffles, necklines, pleats, and long, flowing hemlines.  Like the song's theme, the masculinity is prominent but the feminine elements are very noticeably present.  The models perhaps being the "train of femme fatales" walking down the runway.

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"Knocked Up." Kings of Leon, Because of the Times.  RCA, 06669, Apr 3, 2007. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:hpfixzw5ldse (Apr 6, 2010).



4.  Artist:  The Clash
     Song:  London Calling
     Album:  London Calling
     Year:  1979
     Label:  Epic

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The Clash's London Calling has been hailed one of the greatest rock albums of the 1980's.  The album-titled song has a powerful, repetitive melody delivered with staccato guitar notes and anthem-like lyrics that resound a passionate angst.  It accompanied Jean Paul Gaultier's show for his men's line.  The collection has influences of punk rock style with its use of tartan, argyle, and color palette.  The clothes are like a luxe-version of what The Clash wore.

This musically-influenced style is an example of the effects of a music scene.

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“London Calling.” The Clash, London Calling. Epic, 2000, 63885. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:jifoxqe5ld6e (Apr 6, 2010).



Photobucket5.  Artist:  Billie Holiday
     Song:  Love for Sale
     Album:  Solitude [Verve]
     Year:  1952
     Label:  Polygram



Billie Holiday, one of the most renowned jazz and blues singers, emerged from the Tin Pan Alley scene and revolutionized traditional pop with her highly stylized reading of the blues tradition and her moving personal expression.  "Love for Sale" is a beautiful, dark ballad with gentle, sweeping piano accompaniment.  Holiday's voice has a tone that reminds one of "lazy evenings and dreamy afternoons" (allmusic.com).

Talbot Runhof's Fall 2009 collection had looks inspired by women's fashion in the 1930's - long sleeves and hemlines, nipped waists, headwear, and more form-fitting silhouettes.  After the Great Depression, a more conservative, traditional look was desired.  However, suits and trousers were becoming more popular for women as they entered the workforce.  Holiday's "Love for Sale" was appropriately used for the show to portray a somber romanticism.

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“Love for Sale.” Billie Holiday, Solitude [Verve]. Polygram, 519810, 1993. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:3xfuxq9gldte (Apr 6, 2010).




6.  Artist: Fred Astaire
    Album: The Astaire Story
    Year: 1953
    Label: Polygram

"Puttin' on the Ritz" is a lively number, written by Irving Berlin and performed by dancer, actor, and singer Fred Astaire who supplies his tenor voice and tap dancing in this version.  The song has an upbeat swing and strong brass, wind, and string instrumentals.  The melody is repetitive and winding, but avoids monotony with changes in tempo and emphasis on different instruments.

Dean and Dan Caten, the designers of Dsquared², looked to today's "It Girls" for their inspiration.  Their Fall 2009 collection was a mash-up of styles that imitated the look of throwing on clothes and walking out the door, and somehow pulling it off.  The twin brothers added a cheeky sense of humor by incorporating props that have become "fixtures" on celebrities - Starbucks cups, "It" bags, and sunglasses.

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Dsquared² played Astaire's version of the song, and a total of 22 tracks for the whole show - the most number of songs played during all of the season's shows.  Like the song, the almost-obnoxious pairings of clothing pieces were loud like the brass instruments, yet light-hearted and fun at the same time.


“Puttin’ on the Ritz.” Fred Astaire, The Astaire Story. Polygram, 835649, 1988. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:0pfuxqw5ldte (Apr 6, 2010).



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7.  Artist:  Carole King
    Song:  Hi-De-Ho
    Album:  Now That Everything's Been Said
    Year:  1969
    Label:  Ode/Epic/Legacy

"Hi-De-Ho" has a feel-good melody played by a rich-sounding piano backed by guitar, fiddle, and drums.  Carole King's vocals are sweet and strong, with a rejoicing anthem of "Hi de ho, hi de hi / Gonna get me a piece of the sky."


The label Y-3 is the lovechild of designer Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas, offering an avant-garde take to athletic wear.  The Fall 2009 collection was full of updated menswear for men - and for women and children too.  The clothes were polished, yet comfortable.  "Hi-De-Ho" was played during the show and created a relaxed, "breathe-easy" mentality, which could have been overshadowed by the prominent use of black and formalities of tailored clothes.

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“Hi-De-Ho.” The City & Carole King, Now That Everything's Been Said. Ode/Epic/Legacy, 65851, 1999. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:dzfwxqw5ldje (Apr 6, 2010).
    Album: Songs About Dancing and Drugs
    Year: 2009
    Label: !K7
  
Jeremy Shaw, the artist behind the moniker Circlesquare, produces darker tracks that are still very danceable.  His album Songs About Dancing and Drugs certainly references dancing and drugs, but his overlying message speaks out about the "constant mutation and evolution of subcultures, and the rapid acceleration of science and technology" (pitchfork.com). 

A remixed version of "Dancers" was played at the Hervé Léger by Max Azria show for Fall 2009.  The song provided a pounding, mesmerizing beat for the models sporting Azria's fierce designs.  The entrancing vocals and bass notes complemented the futuristic tribal feel of the collection.  Going along with Circlesquare's philosophy,  the collection mainly consisted of Léger's iconic bandage dresses that underwent "mutation and evolution."

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**see Track #10  for more**

“Dancers.” Circlesquare, Songs About Dancing and Drugs. !K7, 372332, Jan 27 2009. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:jvfqxzukldte (Apr 6, 2010).




Photobucket9.    Artist:  Flying Lotus
      Song:  Riot
      Album:  Los Angeles
      Year:  2008
      Label:  Warp Records


Flying Lotus, experimental music producer, creates a multi-layered sound in the song "Riot".  It evokes a sense of reflective "trippiness" but the heavily syncopated bass keeps the listener grounded.


Designer Akiko Ogawa featured FlyLo's "Riot" in her Fall 2009 show.  The dusky, chilled colors of the collection are well-suited for the darker sounds of the song.  Ogawa's clothes are highly textured and experiment with contrasting styles - soft draping enclosed by structural covering. 



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Photobucket10.  Artist:  Lissy Trullie
     Song:  Boy Boy
     Album:  Self-Taught Learner
     Year:  2009
     Label:  Wichita

Lissy Trullie has a lo-fi, British-rock influenced sound with raw vocals and a bit of angst.  "Boy Boy" has a catchy hook and a crooning chorus.  The guitar and drums create a reminiscence of youthful times, making the song easy to rock out to.

Lissy Trullie and her band played live during the 3.1 Phillip Lim show.  Designer Phillip Lim presented a collection with a nod to the youth culture of the 60's Swinging London.  Loud prints, flared trousers, and updated, luxe-versions of the cut-out dress and bohemian dress graced the runway.  In addition, the models all donned wigs to recreate the famous hairstyle of the time, the bob.  Though the looks were glammed up and thus, perhaps, a bit inaccessible, the show's soundtrack helped them achieve Lim's vision - "It's about fun."

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**from Track #8**
Lissy Trullie was the muse and advertorial model for the Fall 2009 Hervé Léger collection.  At left, a photo of Trullie in one of Léger's designs shot by photographer Richard Kern.


“Boy Boy.” Lissy Trullie, Self-Taught Learner. Wichita, 213, 2009. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:fcfyxzw0ldhe (Apr 6, 2010).






Photobucket11.  Artist: Patti Smith
     Song:  Gimme Shelter
     Album:  Twelve
     Year:  2007
     Label: Columbia


Patti Smith is one of the most influential female rock & rollers of all time.  Her powerful, aggressive voice was usually matched with a hard, androgynous look.  Smith always called attention to herself as an artist, not a woman, and she "obliterated the expectations of what was possible for women in rock, stretch[ing] the boundaries of how artists of any gender could express themselves" (allmusic.com).

The William Rast label is a fusion of music and fashion.  It was founded by music artist Justin Timberlake and his longtime friend Trace Ayala.  Known for their premium jeans, the Fall 2009 collection featured distressed denim and a bold rock & roll influence.  There were leather and jean jackets, studs, dark colors, fringe, and leather gloves.  A tough look to match the tough sound - another nod to fashion of a music scene.


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"Gimme Shelter." Patti Smith, Twelve. Columbia, Apr 24, 2007. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:wpfwxzu5ldke%7ET1 (Apr 6, 2010).


Image Sources:  http://28.media.tumblr.com/ueHE9hHa4o5on5uxWTVFwXaoo1_400.jpg
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/complete/F2009MEN-WRMEN




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12.  Artist:  Nick Drake
     Song:  Cello Song
     Album:  Five Leaves Left
     Year:  1969
     Label:  Island


Nick Drake's musical talent passed almost unnoticed during his lifetime.  His music now has a cult-like following.  Rolling Stone described Drake "as if he were viewing his life from a great, unbridgeable distance."  "Cello Song" is just one example of Drake's melancholy tone that is soothed by his beautiful acoustic-based orchestral arrangements.


Jason Wu cited his inspiration for his Fall 2009 collection as fairy tales, specifically a book of illustrations by Arthur Rackham that he had as a child.  This showed through with his sheer floor-length gowns in soft shades, crowns as hairpieces, and an overall pretty and polished look.


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The music for Wu's show was a mixed soundtrack by DJ Mr. Wilson, which incorporated Drake's "Cello Song".  The song in combination with the added production of reverb effects, multi-layered strings, and moving tempo created a thoughtful and emotional tone to the show without making it too heavy.  It worked well with the understated and regal sophistication of the collection.


"Cello Song." Nick Drake, Five Leaves Left. Island, 842915, 2003. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:gifwxqtgldke (Apr 6, 2010).


Image Sources:  http://www.liquiddarkness.com/drake5.jpg
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2009RTW-JASONWU



13.  Erin Fetherston Fall 2009 Show









Erin Fetherston is known for her precious, ultra-femme designs.  Her Fall 2009 collection was inspired by The Nutcracker, and the theme played out prominently in the music as well.  Ten different songs were played throughout the show.  Here is a closer look at the musical selection, and how each song goes along with the development of the collection as it progresses.  Watch the videos for the full show and full effect.


"Le Petit Chevalier." Ari Boulogne, Desertshore. Reprise Records/Warner Archives, 6424-2, 1993. http://www.discogs.com/Nico-Desertshore/master/35104 (Apr 6, 2010).

Only the first few seconds of "Le Petit Chevalier", which is a child's voice singing, are played as the show begins with the darkened runway.


"Kelli's Hero." Czech Philharmonic Chamber Orchestra, Scored! Classic Film Music - Battle. Primary Wave Records, Jun 2, 2009. http://www.amazon.com/Kellys-Heroes-Theme/dp/B002E4XZ5M/ref=dm_ap_trk2 (Apr 6, 2010).

While the silhouette of the first model appears and the lights turn on, there are energetic marching drums that create an anticipatory feeling.  Once the show starts, the only other instruments are flutes, supplying a lighter sound but with gusto.  The song plays while the first four models walk down the runway.  Right from the start, the Nutcracker inspiration is apparent with red silken coats, "funny" hats, striped tights, and (intensely) buckled shoes. 


"Suite No. 2, Mvmt 3 - Polka." Igor Stravinsky, Suite No. 2 for Chamber Orchestra. Naxos, Aug 3, 1990. http://www.classicalarchives.com/work/179052.html (Apr 6, 2010).

Oh look, it's Stravinsky again.  This song plays for the following four looks (if you keep count, models 5-8).  The flutes are joined by clarinets, trumpets, and trombones.  The woodwinds and brass alternate and create a playful tension.  The subsequent designs now incorporate a soft gold silk.  Like the song's tension, there are contrasting elements like horizontal and vertical stripes and black against white.


"Breakfast Machine." Danny Elfman, Music For A Darkened Theatre Volume One. UMG Recordings, Inc., Nov 13, 1993. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O3Y7GU/ref=dm_sp_alb (Apr 6, 2010).

"Breakfast Machine" picks up the pace for models 9-11.  The melody is a bit frenzied, with notes that scale up and down.  The clothing coincides with an ediger look - a leather jacket, sheer black, and a long black coat.


"Jazz Suite No. 2 - Finale." Dmitry Shostakovich, The Young Lady and the Hooligan / Ballet Suite No. 1. Le Chant Du Monde Fr, Oct 10, 2000. http://www.amazon.com/Dmitry-Shostakovich-Suite-Hooligan-Ballet/dp/B00004YU97 (Apr 6, 2010).

Models 12-14 walk to this much lighter and cheery song.  The flutes return and are interrupted intermittently by a grandiose orchestra.  It is exciting and reminiscent of music one might hear at a circus or parade.  The clothes are lighter too, with playful characteristics.  There is a white blazer atop a full bouncy black skirt and a ruffled white blouse paired with a black jumpsuit; having the white on the upper half keeps the black from being too drab.  The sheer black dress (model 14) is cutesied up with polka dots, big sleeves, and a tutu skirt.


"Et Maintenant Imaginez La Marche Triomphale." Sergei Prokofiev, Pierre Et Le Loup. naive, Dec 6, 2007. http://itunes.apple.com/us/album/prokofiev-pierre-et-le-loup/id313017191 (Apr 6, 2010).

This song has a slower, leisurely pace.  The melody plods along and the notes sound a bit flat.  Models 15-17 are wearing all black ensembles which are more somber and sophisticated.


"The Montagues and the Capulets." Ez3kiel, Battlefield. 690406, 2008. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:3zfexzejld0e (Apr 6, 2010).

"The Montagues and the Capulets" was originally composed by Prokofiev (hey, again).  The beginning of the track is slower and shmoozy.  Then it seductively builds up as violins cradle the song into a more intense sound that has a booming bass.  The clothing (models 18-21) is sassy and sexy - a satin black dress with a fishnet-like pattern, a dress with a low neckline covered with sheer material, and two short black dresses with voluminous skirts.  The models are also wearing very feminine accessories - big, girly bows in their hair and gloves that go to the elbow.


"I Love Buddha." Monkey, Journey To The West. XL, Sept 23, 2008. http://www.amazon.com/I-Love-Buddha/dp/B001E4BA0A (Apr 6, 2010).

The previous song winds down and transitions to a clapped rhythm and merry-go-round-like music with electronic drones.  Similar to the music, the clothing on models 22-26 starts to have more embellishment.  There are bows attached to tops, a bejeweled dress, floral patterned material, a more structured skirt, the addition of lilac satin, and a shift to white tights.


"Clair De Lune." Sebastien Tellier, Rouge Remixed. Musikvertrieb AG, May 30, 2005. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001XK6VOU/?tag=lastfmmp3-20 (Apr 6, 2010).

"Clair De Lune" has a tinkering, dreamy sound and slower pace.  It plays as models 27-29 walk down the runway.  The lilac color and floral print continue to prevail.  The skirts are flouncier, white satin gloves are introduced, along with lilac shoes (as opposed to the black) and sparkly animal masks sit atop the models' heads.  The looks have an ethereal, daintier quality.


"Hanging Upside Down." Balanescu Quartet, Possessed. Mute U.S., Nov 10, 1992. http://www.amazon.com/Possessed/dp/B000003Z5X/ref=pd_cmp_a_img (Apr 6, 2010).

The subsequent looks (models 30-36) are accompanied by "Hanging Upside Down."  This song has strings that produce a happy, pure sounding melody and a gentle, catchy rhythm.  The clothing is sugary sweet and the climax of Fetherston's designs.  They look like ballet costumes - an all white dress with sheer fabric and tutu, a metallic silver dress, a floral cape with ruffed collar.  The final three dresses have asymmetrical skirts with tulle that successively get longer.  The shortest dress done in lilac and silver, the next with the floral print, and the last, longest one in pure, shimmery all white.

The song continues on through the finale as well, when all the models file out for a final walk to showcase the whole collection one more time.  The show ends on a peaceful, pleasant note.


14.  Artist:  Adele
     Song:  Cold Shoulder
     Album:  19
     Year:  2008
     Label:  XL


Photobucket"Cold Shoulder" makes a statement about the role of women by a woman with a strong, gritty voice.  The strings in the song provide a sweetness to the supporting bass and (how to describe drums/rhythm).


"Time and time again, I play the role of fool / (Just for you)"

The Fall 2009 DKNY show played this song (along with Adele's cover version of The Strokes' "Last Night").  The collection portrayed the look of a strong city girl with its use of fire-engine red, bold mixtures of plaid, houndstooth, and stripes, and silhouettes that subtly accentuate.  The designs were highly fashionable with a sense of practicality.





Like Adele, these clothes also make a statement about women loudly and proudly displaying their femininity.  Though maybe "play[ing] the role of fool", their style is certainly smart.

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"Cold Shoulder." Adele, 19. XL, 313, Jan 28, 2008. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:wjfuxzlhldae (Apr 6, 2010). 

Image Sources:  http://jerrodketchersid.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/adele.jpg
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2009RTW-DKNY?page=1





Photobucket15.  Artist:  Santigold
     Song:  Shove It
     Album:  Santogold
     Year:  2008
     Label:  Downtown Records


Santigold has a sing-songy rap style that has been compared to M.I.A., but the diversity of her sounds has established her own name.  "Shove It" has an energetic beat and trumpets in the background that make this song a resounding dance number.  There is a reggae influence to the sound and witty lyrics.





Newcomer to the runways, designer Julianna Bass, featured "Shove It" in her Fall 2009 collection.  Bass designs with this concept in mind:  "great significance lies in one's ability to make a statement without saying a word."  Her clothing certainly achieves this with poofed structural elements, stark colors, and an undeniable lady-like charm.



The collection and the song exude both a playful and agressive attitude.


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"Shove It." Santigold, Santogold. Downtown Records, 70034, Apr 29, 2008. http://allmusic.com/cg/amg.dll?p=amg&sql=10:axfpxz9jldse (Apr 6, 2010).


Image Sources:  http://www.brooklynvegan.com/img/music2/santigold.jpg
http://www.juliannabass.com/Collections.htm


Conclusion: 

This playlist takes an in-depth view of the relationship between music and fashion and its role in the formation of identities.  Reyes defines identity as "first and foremost the boundary created by perceptions of sameness and difference that must for some reason be expressed" (61).  These boundaries are unfixed, moveable, and ever-changing due to cultural diversity and pluralism.  As a result, identity raises the dilemma of choice and uncertainty.  In the 21st century, musical ideas and materials have become decontextualized and detached from the rules of a musical and cultural system that they were once subjected to, opening a wider range of creative possibilities (Reyes 40). 

Identity has just as much of an aural dimension as a visual one.  In past histories, traditional societies have had fixed social roles and codes, so that one's clothes and appearance instantly marked his or her social class, profession, and status.  Fashion is now seen as an important element of personal, self-created identity.  Like music, it is based on innovation, destruction and reconstruction of the old, and possibilities.  In addition, both music and fashion have been (and still are) bound by gender codes, stereotypes, and other social constructs and cultural differences.  Thus, the "American sense of self, and of music as an expression of that self, is a perennial work in progress" (Reyes 48).


Sources:

http://www.agendainc.com/aw09.pdf

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=1430300

Reyes, Adelaida. Music in America. New York: Oxford University Press, Inc. 2005. Print.

Benstock, Shari & Jerriss, Suzanne. On Fashion. New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press. 1994. Print.



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